Versalles

A Treaty for the Eyes

For centuries, the name of the Parisian suburb of Versailles resounded through the consciousness of every aristocratic family in France. The palace here out-dazzled every other kingly residence in Europe -- it was a horrendously expensive scandal and a symbol to later generations of a regime obsessed with prestige above all else.

Back in the grand siècle (the 17th century), all you needed was a sword, a hat, and a bribe for the guard at the gate. Provided you didn't look as if you had smallpox, you'd be admitted to the Château de Versailles, where you could stroll through salon after glittering salon -- watching the Sun King rise -- and dress and dine and do even more intimate things while you gossiped, danced, plotted, flirted, and trysted. Today, travelers get to see only half of the palace's treasures; the rest are closed to the public. Some 3.2 million visitors arrive annually; on average, they spend 2 hours.